Folk art painted furniture has a charm that mass-produced pieces rarely match. A blanket chest with naive tulips, a settle decorated with dragons, or a chair back painted with a name and date all carry the hand of a maker and the history of a household. That individuality is exactly why these pieces can be so rewarding to collect. It is also why they demand careful evaluation before you part with your money. Original paint, sound structure and honest wear matter far more than a pretty surface. A little patience at the point of purchase will save you from an expensive mistake and help you buy something you can genuinely enjoy for years.
Original paint is the single biggest factor in the value of folk art painted furniture. A piece with its first coat, even if worn and chipped, is generally more desirable than one that has been stripped and repainted. Look for paint in the places later decorators miss: the corners of drawer fronts, the inside edges of rails, the backs of legs, the undersides of seats and the recesses of mouldings. Original paint often has a thin, slightly uneven character, with visible brush marks, drips and a build-up of dirt in crevices. You may see craquelure, the fine network of cracks that develops with age, and a patina that feels dry rather than sticky.
Wear patterns are just as revealing. On a genuine old piece, paint is usually rubbed away on the arms, stretchers, drawer pulls and the front edge of a seat where hands and clothing have touched it over generations. That wear should follow the way the piece was used. Be suspicious of uniform wear, or of a surface that has been sanded smooth all over. Later overpainting tends to look opaque, hides the grain and often covers every part of the piece, including areas that would never have been painted originally. A small torch used at a low angle can help you see brush marks, cracks and layers. If you can, check under a loose corner or inside a drawer for earlier colour. A magnet can also reveal later nails or staples hidden beneath the paint.
Paint can distract from structural problems, so always examine the piece as a piece of furniture first. Turn it upside down if you can. Check the feet, legs and stretchers for splits, repairs and rot. A gentle rock will show whether the frame is tight or whether joints have worked loose. Look at the joinery: dovetails on drawer fronts, mortise-and-tenon joints, pegs and hand-cut nails all suggest an earlier date. Later machine-cut screws, staples and metal brackets are useful clues to repair or alteration.
Drawers should run smoothly without excessive play. Remove each drawer and inspect the runners, the sides and the back. Woodworm is common in old pieces, but it is not always a deal-breaker. Fresh frass, tiny piles of wood dust, and active holes are more concerning than old, inactive damage. Splits in boards are also common as wood shrinks and moves. A stable split is usually acceptable; a widening crack, a warped panel or a loose back can indicate further trouble. Remember that folk art pieces were often made in humble workshops, so minor irregularities are part of their character. What you want to avoid is hidden weakness that will worsen with use.
Later alterations are not always bad, but they should be identified and reflected in the price. Replaced hinges, locks, handles and escutcheons are common, especially on well-used pieces. Extra screw holes around hardware show that something has been changed. Replacement feet, legs, backs or crest rails can be harder to spot, particularly when the whole piece has been repainted. Compare the colour and texture of the paint across different sections. If the decoration stops abruptly at a joint, or if one board looks cleaner and sharper than the rest, it may be a later addition.
Be wary of a piece that has been “improved” with a later base, castors or a new top. Marriages, where a top from one piece is united with a base from another, are not uncommon in the folk art market. Honest repairs, such as a glued joint or a sympathetic patch, are generally acceptable and should be welcomed. Concealed repairs, filler painted over to hide damage, or a completely stripped surface are more problematic. If the original paint has been removed, much of the piece’s historic and financial value has gone with it.
A good seller will expect questions and will answer them openly. Ask about the age, the history, any restoration and whether the paint is believed to be original. If the seller is vague or evasive, take that as a warning. Red flags include:
None of these points is automatically fatal, but each one deserves an explanation. A replaced hinge on a 150-year-old chest is normal. A replaced foot, a rebuilt drawer and a fresh coat of paint over everything is a different matter.
Buy folk art painted furniture because you love it, not because you expect a quick profit. The best pieces combine strong decoration, sound construction and a surface that has aged honestly. If the paint is original, the structure is tight and any alterations are few and sympathetic, you can buy with confidence. If repairs are needed, budget for them and use a conservator who understands historic finishes rather than a general restorer who might strip the surface. Ask yourself whether you can live with the imperfections, because they are part of the story. And if something feels wrong after a careful inspection, walk away. There will always be another chest, chair or dresser with a tale to tell.
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.
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Soldman Kell
April 25, 2019 at 10:46 am
Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood hangouts that you've only ever seen on TV. Take in the iconic skyline and visit the neighbourhood.